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Planning off-grid power: sizing your power station, solar panel and consumption

Whether it's a weekend in the van, a cabin without grid power or balcony solar with a battery, the question is always the same: how big do battery and solar panel need to be so the power lasts? This guide shows the order in which to plan, which guide values apply and where the typical mistakes are.

Step 1: Determine your daily consumption honestly

Everything starts with consumption, not with the panel. Every device uses power times time: a laptop at 65 W for three hours is 195 Wh, a compressor cooler at 45 W that cycles for ten hours a day is 450 Wh. What matters is the actual runtime – not the time the device is switched on.

Guide values; the label and a power meter always take precedence.
DevicePowerTypical runtimeWh/day
Compressor cooler45 W8–12 h (cycling)360–540
Laptop65 W3 h195
LED lights (2 lamps)10 W4 h40
Smartphone charging (2×)10 W2 h40
Mobile router10 W8 h80
Diesel heater (fan)30 W6 h180
Coffee maker1,200 W0.15 h (9 min)180
Electric kettle1,500 W0.1 h (6 min)150

Frugal campers get by with 300–500 Wh per day, with a cooler and laptop it's 600–900 Wh, with a coffee maker, induction cooktop or Starlink quickly 1,000–1,500 Wh. A tiny house with fridge, lights, router and pump is at 1,000–2,000 Wh.

Step 2: Choose storage by off-grid days

The battery bridges the time without sun: the night and, when in doubt, two to three overcast days. The rule of thumb:

storage [Wh] = daily consumption [Wh] × off-grid days ÷ usable fraction
685 Wh × 2 days ÷ 0.9 ≈ 1,500 Wh power station

The usable fraction matters: a power station rated at “1,000 Wh” delivers 850–920 Wh at its outlets because the battery management keeps a reserve and the inverter and DC converters have losses. With a lead-acid battery (AGM, gel) only 50% is usable, with LiFePO4 solar batteries 80–90%.

  • Weekend with cooler and laptop: 1,000–1,500 Wh – enough for one night plus one overcast day.
  • A week of boondocking: 2,000–3,000 Wh with solar, so two rainy days are no problem.
  • Tiny house / cabin: 3,000–5,000 Wh, depending on the fridge and the heater fan in winter.
  • Balcony solar battery: 1,000–2,000 Wh cover a household's nighttime base load (router, fridge, standby).

Step 3: Size the solar panel by sun hours

A panel only delivers its rated power under lab conditions. For planning you use peak sun hours and a system efficiency of about 75%:

solar output [Wh/day] = panel power [W] × sun hours [h] × 0.75 required panel power [W] = daily consumption ÷ (sun hours × 0.75)
685 Wh ÷ (4 h × 0.75) ≈ 230 W – in fall with 3 h it would be 305 W
Peak sun hours on a horizontal surface; south-facing tilted panels gain up to 50% in winter, little in summer.
Season (continental US)Peak sun hours/day200 W panel delivers
December/January (North)2–3 h300–450 Wh
March/October3.5–4.5 h525–675 Wh
April–September5–6 h750–900 Wh
Clear summer day (Southwest)6–7 h900–1,050 Wh
Overcast day (any season)10–25% of that50–250 Wh

Plan 20–30% reserve above the calculated requirement, and check the solar input of the power station: many units accept only 100–400 W and limit the input voltage – a 400 W residential module with 40 V open-circuit voltage doesn't fit every input.

Step 4: Check the balance and estimate charge time

If the solar output exceeds consumption, the balance is positive – the battery fills up every day and the system runs indefinitely as long as the sun cooperates. If it's negative, the battery drains by the deficit each day; usable energy divided by deficit gives the number of days until empty.

The charge time of an empty battery from solar is capacity divided by effective panel power: 1,000 Wh ÷ (200 W × 0.75) = 6.7 sun hours – at 4 sun hours per day just under two days. If loads run at the same time, only the surplus counts.

Solar & off-grid calculatorcalculates consumption, solar output, balance, off-grid days and charge time in one step.

Typical mistakes

  • Daylight hours instead of peak sun hours: ten hours of sun in the sky is five to six peak sun hours in summer, two in winter.
  • Planning for the best day: three overcast days in a row are normal. The “without sun” value is the honest reserve.
  • Overlooking small continuous loads: a router at 10 W over 24 hours is 240 Wh – more than a coffee maker per day.
  • Seeing surplus as reserve: once the battery is full at noon, the remaining solar output is wasted.
  • Inverter always on: 8–15 W of idle draw all day costs 200–360 Wh.
All values are guide values. Electrical installations above 48 V DC or with grid connection (balcony solar, feed-in) are subject to codes and registration requirements – that's a job for a licensed electrician.

Sources

Published on 09/22/2026.